Goa by Art
Director of Grosvenor Gallery, London, and co-founder of Art Mumbai, art aficionado Conor Macklin has found a second home in Goa. We revisit the seaside paradise with him.
Traditional Goan delicacies offer a burst of rich flavours that are predominantly spicy and tangy. Relish authentic vegetarian delicacies such as Goan-style tonak alsanyache, made from legume and potatoes, or kaju biyaam tondak made with Goan cashew. Don’t miss delectable seafood such as crab xacuti (crab masala curry), kismur (dry shrimp/prawn salad) and sambarachi koddi (made with prawns).
Run by Conor Macklin and Charles Moore, Grosvenor Gallery has continually exhibited modern and contemporary South Asian art, predominantly the works of mid-20th century modernists such as the Bombay Progressives.
Goa may be known best for its vibrant shack culture, lively parties, and bustling markets, but beyond its energetic vibe, there lies a side that is timeless and serene. There’s a peaceful rhythm that flows through its markets, streets, people, and art, offering a gentle contrast to the more vibrant elements. It’s a place where you can slow down, breathe deeply, and embrace the simple joys of life — whether you’re immersing yourself in the rich culture or just savouring a cold beer on a warm afternoon.
Christmas in Goa is pure magic, wrapped in warmth and tradition. Our family has spent two unforgettable holidays here, starting with midnight mass followed by a sumptuous buffet lunch. Surrounded by friends and their families, they were times of indulgence and cherished memories that will last a lifetime!
Memories of Panjim
Panjim, the heart of Goa, has its own charm. There’s something deeply soothing about meandering through its narrow alleys and climbing the old, crumbling stairs of Portuguese-era buildings. A cold drink in hand, and the aroma of sizzling chorizo and vindaloo (vindalho) in the air — it’s a slice of heaven. My favourite spot used to be an old ballroom, run by a gentleman who served nothing but ice-cold beer and hearty portions of pork vindalho. Sadly, that place is no more, but the memories of it linger like a soft melody. For a peaceful escape from the crowds of Panjim, I often retreat to Altinho Hill, a serene spot just above the city. Here, you’ll find Sunaparanta Goa Centre For The Arts, a space that not only offers a quiet respite but also serves the best coffee in town. It’s the perfect place to slow down and reflect on the day. When hunger strikes, a visit to Ritz Classic is in order. Their fish rice curry is a simple yet divine dish that speaks to the soul of Goa’s culinary tradition.
Spot Peace
For those who prefer peace over the hustle and bustle of cruises, I recommend taking a ferry to Reis Magos. This quaint village offers a peaceful escape, a serene contrast to the vibrant pulse of Panjim. It has a timeless ambience, with quaint streets and a church built in 1515. I’ve often met an elderly lady there who has the keys to open the church, and her quiet presence adds to the sense of history that envelops you.
Artists’ Inspiration
If you’re in the mood for art and culture, a visit to Kala Akademi is a must. The works of Charles Correa, one of India’s finest architects, are scattered around the area, and you can experience some of his masterpieces. If you’re lucky enough to visit in December during the Serendipity Arts Festival, you might even get the chance to enjoy a classical music concert under the moonlight — an experience that feels almost ethereal. Wandering through the local markets is another treat. The vibrant stalls are bursting with fresh fish, mountains of vegetables, and aromatic spices. And of course, don’t forget to sample the cashew nuts, a local delight that captures the essence of Goa in every bite.
For those with an interest in history and culture, Goa offers an array of treasures. A visit to the Basilica of Bom Jesus will bring you face-to-face with the relics of Saint Francis Xavier. The rare and sacred decennial exposition of the holy relics of St Francis Xavier is on and will continue till January 5. The Museum of Christian Art houses an exquisite collection of Portuguese colonial objects, a testament to the region’s rich history. Afterward, a stroll through the antique shops can reveal hidden gems, from brass statues to delicate lacework.
Goa’s art history holds a special place in my heart, especially the works of the celebrated artist F.N. Souza. His depictions of Goan life in bold, expressive colours, have taught me so much. His watercolours of local scenes, like paddy fields with buffaloes, women huddling under blankets in the rain, or the lively village squares with chickens, pigs, and dogs, feel timeless. What’s truly amazing is that even though these paintings were created in the 1940s, they still resonate today, as you see these same scenes unfolding before your eyes. Some of his works on paper were exhibited at the recently concluded second edition of Art Mumbai to mark his birth centenary.
Through his eyes, I have come to understand and appreciate this unique place. Over the years, I have not only collected his works but have also delved deeper into the history of Goan antiquities, particularly the intricate pieces of Indo-Portuguese art that capture the fusion of cultures that defines Goa.
(As told to P. Mukherjee)
Other Quest
